jerusalem in exile tangible memories

 

     

Reem Bader

 

‘Qalandia’ checkpoint…  waiting for my friend to pick me up, and there she comes. Excited but worried I got into the car; I have a green ID so I am not allowed to the city anymore, she had to take indirect routes to Jerusalem, most of them unrecognisable to me.

 

My friend chatting, Arabic music playing, new objects forced into the landscape, roads with Hebrew names and we are unaware of our location...

 

Half an hour later I recognize the ‘Sheikh Jarah’ hill on the right hand side and ‘Beit Hanina’ on the left. Ah, this is your old house right… that’s ‘El-Taleh El-Faransieh’… now I remember this bridge… this road takes you to Jericho …

 

Up the hill joyful chill spread all over my body; I am in Jerusalem. It has been five years. I used to work in Jerusalem for nine years. I used to drive to work in the early 1990s. A couple of years later checkpoints were fixed around the city and I needed a permit for myself and another for the car. Afterwards the Israelis wont issue vehicle permits so I needed a personal one but had to use the public transport of all kinds! In 2005, I was not allowed to the city and I was denied to have a permit! Regardless, I went to Jerusalem.

 

We stopped at the lights uttering that to my friend who did not comment rather kept her thoughts to herself. So did I, engaged with flashes of memories. Now I remember the abstract sculpture on the left, recently painted white. I’ve seen it for thousands of times not realising how intimidating it was until today. What its tasteless shapes and colour signifies is nothing more than its enforcement upon this space and place struggling to merge in its surroundings and/or adding very little to it.

 

I am in Jerusalem… The city where I spend the best years of my life worked and grew independent as an individual and as a woman. Some would be attached to the city for its holiness, history, political value, etc. but it’s not only all of that that is missed, it’s the normality, accessibility and familiarity with the place when it becomes part of one’s being.

 

Let’s go for a night drive to Jerusalem, its so lovely at night…‘this is my father’s house that was taken only days before we moved in, the bathroom sets weren’t even fixed’ my father would utter driving down Jerusalem-Bethlehem Road and pointing to the left hand side where the house is located… lovely two storey house, my aunt kept the key… lets go to the Armenian potter down Tareeq Al-Allam, I need to buy a gift and he’s the most creative, speaking on the phone and forcing my way through crowded Bab El Amoud my mum would say ‘bring me Ka’k Wa Falafel on your way back, fresh from Mosrara’, even catching a service to Ramallah regardless to its interior and music is normality…

 

The lights turned green and we left the hideous sculpture. My visual memory, ahead of me, directed me to Sheikh Jarah on the left towards Salah El-Deen Street, but I realise that we were taking another road! I have driven down this new/old main road leading to ‘Bab Eljdeed’ countless times. I even remember that on many occasions I was wishful that the service driver would take this road back to Ramallah after a long day at work, because its quicker. But I had no recollection of it before this moment, neither of the bridge, the sculpture, the police station, the hotels, or the alien palm trees around the deserted Bab El-Amoud…

 

I sank back in my seat trying to take in what refreshed my memory! I held to my video camera looking through its lens which was recording the whole time. Filming, sometimes, functions as a shield, distancing the subject from the object. It’s comforting. Otherwise how did photographers and cameramen managed to record during wartimes? 

 

My visit to the city lasted two days and I had my camera on Rec. most times. At other times when I was looking I was reminded with Aka, Haifa and Yafa… it’s just been five years!!!

 

The following week I went back to Jerusalem and this time I did not film much but some research material for my artwork...

 

 

May 2006